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Decaling For Newbies Tutorial

by Mustard Gas (Tips, Techniques & Questions)

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Decaling for Newbies
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Hello, I just thought of not too long ago when I was new to Lego customizing and I had LOTS of questions, so I thought of writing this tutorial that tells you how to print out your decals and what to put on them to make them shiny and to make them stick without special paper.

So, you just logged on to MCN the first time and see some great customs and decals that you would really like for your own, so, you resize them and get ready to print them when you ask yourself.. "Well how am i gonna get these darn decals on my figs, and how are they supposed to shine and not look like regular paper? " (or something like that) Well, do i have the guide for you..

First you print those bad boys and cut them (but dont cut them individually yet) now for a semi cheap and easy way to make your decals into stickers and shiny is coming up!

Firstly, you need to go down to Target or a crafts store and pick yourself up one of these babies! *another pic*

This is a XYRON create-a-sticker sticker creater, they only cost about 8 bucks and the refils cost about 3 bucks. you just cut the decals on normal printer paper into a strip like this one and slide it into the XYRON X-box, now you pull them out and take the outer layer of plastic stuff. Then, you get some clear packing tape and put on elarge strip over all of your desired decals. then you press down the tape and cut the individual decals out. you then take off the backing of the sticker and -voila- you have yourself a decal you then just stick the decal to your fig and you're done!
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*master chief decals by El Meriachi (sp?)

18 comments

Molding Q&A

by Recluce (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
I have volunteered Tothiro to come and join in and answer our questions regarding sculpting, casting, resin, molds, etc. He is one of our resident experts on the subject, and I'd like to make this info readily available to everyone, as well as quite visible for all the newbies coming to the forum for advice. Mods, please sticky this so that it stays at the top. Questions and answers will be added to this post as they are done, so that anyone looking for info will only have to look at this one post. For an animated tutorial, please refer to Tothiro's artpad rendition. http://artpad.art.com/gallery/?ihi01uhtyq4

Question: When making a mold, you say to cut the large part in half, and then you have the "head" section, so that leaves you with 3 pieces. How do you keep them together tightly? Rebuild the lego box as a shell? Or am I missing something?

49 comments

Printing Service

by Kaminoan (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
Because several of you have asked if I could print your designs, here is an instructional guide to printing.

Preparing art for Fine Clonier Printing Service (and Red Bean Studio if RB is willing)

1. Art must be either prepared in or compatible with Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw.
2. The following CMYK values denote special colors (See Below):

White: C: 2 M: 2 Y: 2 K: 0
Silver (Metallic or Foil): C: 26 M: 24 Y: 23 K: 0
Gold (Metallic or Foil): C: 12 M: 37 Y: 100 K: 0
Metallic Cyan: C: 100 M: 31 Y: 21 K: 0
Metallic Magenta: C: 36 M: 86 Y: 55 K: 0

If you want to use these colors, these exact CMYK values must be used.

For Lego Color values please see the color chart at Peeron: Offical Lego Color Palette

3. Art must be color separated into 3 layer/files for best printing (See Examples, Thanks RB for the Art).

White Layer

Metal Layer

CMYK Layer

The three layers are White (Printed First), Metal Inks (Printed Second), CMYK (Printed Third).

The art is printed in layers, anything that is to be transparent or printed with a metal ink should not be under printed in white (Make sure that it does not appear on the white layer/file). Any color can appear on the white layer/section and the printer will print it in white. Only use the special CMYK color value for white in special situation when printing white over the top of another color.

Metal inks come in two types, Foil and Metallic, please note which you prefer. Foil is more shinny like a mirror and metallic is more dull.

If you want both metallic and foil art must be color separated into 4 layers/files. For an example of this affect please see this design: Boromir

Questions??
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I don't currently have the option of selling pre-decaled torsos/figs. I am a graduate student working on my Ph.D. so time is a bit scarce, which is why I have been lurking more than anything lately.

I can clarify the instructions a bit for you, decal application is possible with water only. However if you were to "play" with these figs you risk damaging the decal. If however, your custom figs were for mere display, then they would be perfectly fine at this point. There is an alternative that I haven't seen mentioned here, the finished fig could be protected with many products, including floor wax. See this site: Future's Floor Wax

Through the use of setting solution the decal adheres more tightly to a fig, but this solution is not required and I don't always use it. The second solution is decal softening solution. This is only required when fitting a decal to a complex curve, like the minifig arm (and only when applying to the whole arm). If I am applying a decal to a flat surface, the torso for example, I do not commonly use the decal softening solution. Lastly, I use gloss or semi-gloss overcoat which is just a clear enamel to cover and protect the fig, however, as I have previously stated you can even use floor wax as many modelers do.

Don't be restricted to just what the FAQs state, there are many ways to apply a water slide decal, if you really want to experiment, pick up a cheap model, at Walmart type store, off the clearance rack for a $1. Take the water slide decals out and play with them. See what you can do and if you are happy with the finished product. If you can't find a model with water-slide decals, I have some misprinted decals I could send you to try. If this doesn't work out for you, then maybe we could work something out, where I apply a decal for you, but I would rather you have the experience/pride in your accomplishment, than let someone else finish the fig you have worked so hard to make. Hope this helps and if you want to discuss it further please feel free to email me at Fineclonier@gmail.com

As far as a fee for the printing service, it would be just like my current pricing (for reference it is similar to RB's decal pricing), which depends a bit on the design and the number of decals you are interested in getting. I try to cover my costs yet keep this economical for you guys.
Jared "Kaminoan" Burks

29 comments

Design removal WARNING

by Schvatts (Tips, Techniques & Questions)

This is a little warning to everyone about removing designs on mini-figures. Do Not use brake fluid. It kills the plastic and discolors it.... does remove designs and paint though. Kills plastic meaning cracks them and makes them brittle.

Not sure if everyone knew this and was I just retarded to do it. My uncle is a big model train guru and use is on trains. That technique does not cross over into mini-figure customizing.

This is for your information.

4 comments

Moulds

by IRONFIST (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
Does anyone know how to make perfect moulds for new pieces?

1 comment

Chrome

by IRONFIST (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
Does anyone know how to make chrome pieces like Armothe?

4 comments

Resizing question

by CarzyPink (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
Sorry , I know this question has been asked many times , but I can`t seem to find a topic about it , or anything in the site , that can help me.So can anyone please tell to a noob like me what size my decal needs to be , in pixels?Thank you.

3 comments

Is it poosible?

by ILoveLegosBeacoup (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
is it possible for me to create a decal,that will actualy look good on a minfig,without a printer?
i mean like without special paper or anything, or is there anyway to copy decals from official LEGO torsos?

2 comments

Purple Paint

by Nermal88 (Tips, Techniques & Questions)
Hey guys, Has anyone heard of a purple paint that matches(or comes close to) lego purple or dark purple? I need some for various parts crucial to some minifigs. Nermal